APERTA COLLECTION 2024
FASHION & TEXTILE EXPLORATION
APERTA remembers the Galician legacy, transfer the techniques of two fashion icons, and embraces the richness of the environment around us.
(A PER TA) - GALICIAN.
(n.) HUG.
SQUEEZE OR COVER THE BODY.
APERTA is a collection born from the observation and fabric manipulation exploration from two of the most innovative shared visions of two fashion master minds, Madeleine Vionnet and Cristobál Balenciaga.
The collection involves designing and manipulating the fabric as a second skin for the body.
Based on this, the project explores and is inspired by the folklore tradition of the Coroza of Galicia, in Spain. An ancient clothing made entirely of straw by Galician farmers and farmers, in order to protect themselves from the rain and the environment.
APERTA seeks to represent the need to hug and shelter the human body, but with the natural environment as second skin.
We aim to induce a dialogue between the rural and the contemporary, to initiate new ways of attributing value and beauty to an almost forgotten tradition.
THE COLLECTION INTERVENTIONS
Dressed in black, both interventions represent the magnificence and beauty of black, a symbol of Hispanic culture, and of the new trends of contemporary fashion.
The ever-complicating black of Balenciaga and the subtle shadows on the Vionnet falls, highlights the richness on complexity of the fabrics on the body.
PREMÉ
(galician) - “oppress”.
PREMÉ, “oppress” in Galician, translates the game of pressure and compression that the human performs to the body to protect itself.
It consists of 6 patterns which build 2 superimposed skirts, which simulate the layers of the Galician straw suit.
The lower skirt is made of tarlatana fabric and is lined discreetly sycamore leaves, a natural resource in abundance and within our reach; which generates a colossal volume and a padded texture.
The upper skirt of black retor, attributes texture and an identity elegant, as it is completely decorated with a gradient of tiny tubular structures.
PEITO
(galician) - “armour”.
PEITO, a Galician “armour”, fuses the use of minimalist lines, and the construction of the body and shapes Balenciaga’s sophisticated works and contrast the movement and fluidity of Vionnet’s works.
The intervention consists of 3 pieces unit each other by 7 different patterns using the technique of Madeleine Vionnet of carve the fabric directly onto the mannequin.
A tarlatana vest that looks like a rigid armor made of folds, which generate compact empty spaces between them, allowing the passage of tree branches in a horizontal sequence and giving a rigid texture simulating an armour.
The hood attached to the back of the vest supports from end to end a structure with bamboo branches that simulates the protective silhouette of an umbrella, inspired by Balenciaga’s 1967 headdresses.
Fluidity & movement by Vionnet on the interchangeable sleeves made of both fabrics; to the shoulders include the tubular and wide geometry of the Galician chorus.
Dressed from the nature as a SECOND SKIN
VOLUME - STUCTURE - GRAVITY
ABOUT THE PROCESS…
The project incorporated an extensive process of experimentation, from the observation of movements natural to cover the body, to the abstraction of futuristic forms, eventually to the ideation of each doing them.
EXPLORATION & EXPERIMENTATION OF FABRICS.
A study of fabrics behavior when exposed to different temperatures and in contact with the skin or body of the manikin.
Through the development of the project, measures were taken that will ensure the most sustainable result possible, from the conscious appreciation of nature and the environment.
A MORE SUSTAINABLE VISION!
For example, the garments were made from the control of reuse of fabric waste, for the development of patterns and clothing, for the exhibition space only recycled or reused elements were incorporated to give them a second use.
